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Ilkley Moor
Ageless moor
You beckon me
To discover the secrets
Of your ancient stones.
Laid in times immemorial,
Clues from a long forgotten enigma.
The call of the Curlew in spring,
Wavering and lilting on high,
To disappear into long folds of heather,
A ghostly spirit from the sky.
Cradled in your majestic hills
A small white house;
With sparkling waters
Cold, pure and clear.
The mecca of pilgrims,
Seeking solitude, peace and rest.
A playground now for young and old,
In search of something they may never find.
The Grouse cries out, “gobak, gobak.”
It is well to heed the sentinel’s warning,
For few have mastered your icy hold.
As the cold, damp mists settle over you craggy head,
‘Neath which Roman legions and Rupert trod,
You keep your mysteries you ageless, quiet moor.
Will man ever solve the puzzle of your ancient stones.
by
Frazer Irwin
The first verse of the above poem is to be found on the
Oak bench at Darwin's View in the Millennium Green
You can’t beat local knowledge when it comes to interesting walks around Ilkley. After looking at ‘official’ tourist sites we decided we could do a better job. All routes start from Ilkley Tourist Information Centre on Springs Lane, near the Town Hall and Library. The office is closed on Sundays but open Monday to Friday. Visitors are strongly advised to obtain local maps from the TIC to aid their rambles. Appropriate clothing and footwear must be worn if taking to the high ground of the moors.
If one’s bladder is of a weak disposition we suggest you keep to the lower, less strenuous routes. With exception perhaps of the stroll to Darwin Gardens Millennium Green and White Wells. Why? Them over t’ill are bent on closing the town’s Latrinae Publicaea. They fail to recognise the diuretic nature of local water.
A point not lost on our Victorian forebears. They equipped Ilkley with seven Latrinae around the area. Another five units being added at a later stage. The town now struggles to keep three with the occasional fourth, open. These are found in the Central Car Park, White Wells, and Ilkley Lido and sometimes in Riverside Memorial Gardens. A unit for wheel chair users is in the central car park but not available twenty-four hours.
Medium uphill stroll to Ilkley Tarn and White Wells via Mill Ghyll and Darwin Gardens Millennium Green.
Level stroll by the river taking in All Saints Church, Manor House Museum, Old Bridge, West and East Holmes Fields. Also branching to Hudson Wood and Blue Bells in spring.
Long hike uphill to Cow and Calf Rocks, then down hill through Rocky Valley, to White Wells, Hebers Ghyll and Swastica Stone. Returning by way of Grove Road or Queens Road to Town Centre.
We are still out on these.
With your backs to the TIC turn left and walk past The Midland towards the former fountain, now a raised flowerbed, atop Brook Street. Turn left again up Mill Ghyll so named after two cornmills, which stood along its banks. The last mill owner became the first landlord of The Midland.
The Ghyll is on a 999 year lease to Ilkley Local Board of Health or their descendants, today being Bradford Metropolitan District Council. About half way up the visitor will see a short flight of stone steps. They led to collecting tanks in the stream bed from where water was piped to Ilkley station to feed the steam railway engines.
At the fork keep right and through the iron gate (second gate), don’t forget to close it. Cross Queens Road and take the path beside Linnburn Mews. Turn left at the corner, up the short incline, across College Drive and through the kissing gate into Darwin Gardens Millennium Green. A map of the Millennium Green is on the notice board to your right.
After taking the delights of the Millennium Green you have a choice, Ilkley Tarn or White Wells or both. For those not wishing to do the first part of the walk there is a bus from the stand opposite the Tourist Information Centre. The Millennium Green also has a small car park. Please help the Darwin Gardens Trust and take your rubbish home. Thank you.
Cross the road below the cattle grid onto Crossbeck Road and take your first turning right. The building to your immediate left is Hillside Court. In 1859 the left half was North View House where Charles Darwin and his family resided. Darwin took the water cure at White Wells at the same time Origin of Species was published. The building later became St Winifred’s Maternity Home and another plantsman, Alan Titchmarsh, first drew breath alongside Ilkley Moor. A young Jilly Cooper would play with childhood friends by the stream to your right.
Take the path through the large wooden gate (please close it) and up the hill. If you have a dog keep it under close control on a lead. Sheep are easily frightened and shepherds hereabouts have short tempers. Follow the road upto the Tarn. On your left will be seen Troutbeck a former Hydro and residence for a short time of our present Prince of Wales.
You may feel walking round The Tarn is enough. Either re-trace your route or take the steps and footpath at the east end of the Tarn and walk down to the edge of the moor. Turn right and follow the track, through a wooden gate and onto Cowpasture Road. Turn left again and walk back to town.
There are numerous paths from The Tarn to White Wells and a welcome cup of tea at the end of your hike. Be sure to look for the flags outside White Wells before leaving Darwin Gardens Millennium Green. If they are flying they are open for visitors.
To White Wells
On leaving Darwin Gardens Millennium Green by the topmost paths turn right up hill. Immediately to your right is Wells House, a former hydropathic establishment, designed by Hull architect Cuthbert Brodrick. Opened in 1856, the day before Queen Victoria’s birthday, at a cost of around £30K. It’s most notable visitor being Darwin in 1859.
During the thirties Victor Sylvester spent the summer season at Wells House with his dance orchestra. Brodrick also designed Leeds Town Hall and the Grand Hotel, Scarborough. In 1952/3 Wells House became Ilkley College of Housecraft, later Bradford and Ilkley Community College until closing in 1999.
Magellan Land Limited re-developed Wells House and nearby units into exclusive residences. Feeding of waterfowl is frowned upon.
Continue up hill until signs to White Wells are seen on the opposite side of the road. Take care when crossing. If you come by car, please park carefully and DO NOT BLOCK White Wells track. Emergency vehicles require this keeping open for access to the moor. Again, if you have a dog keep it under close control. Also take home any fallout from your pooch and don’t as some do, throw their bag of dog poor into the bracken. The track you are following would have been the route taken by John ‘Donkey’ Jackson and his steeds transporting fee paying visitors to Ilkley Spaw - White Wells.
Rest a while at the waterfall and take in the view, at least that which can be seen around badly planted trees. On your map it is Willy Hall’s Spout, a mis-spelling of Willy How - small valley. For the energetic take the path up the side of the waterfall and on into Will How Plantation. At it’s top most end one will find a cup and ring carved boulder. A path leads off to the right and onto White Wells. For the less energetic continue uphill.
The first building on your right was built to hold the Charity or Poor Bath. For those wishing to take the Cold Water Cure but not having funds for donkey transport. They had to walk! The building now houses a uni-sex Latrinae Publicae and is the responsibility of Bradford’s Countryside Department. If you have any cause to complain about their condition please contact the appropriate department and NOT the tenants of White Wells.
White Wells have stood on this spot for near 300 years. The baths being built by a Middleton Squire around the mid 18th century, to replace another older ‘well or bath’. This was approximately 8 chains to the south of the present buildings. White Wells are fed by three springs and are notable for their very pureness. Another fact apparently lost to them over t’ill as the water is now filtered to the cottage and bath. They have little discernible mineral content, it is the action of their coldness which caused the efficacy of the ‘Water Cure’.
Visitors are reminded White Wells have live in tenants. Please conduct yourselves in a manner befitting the area. Given the distance from town PLEASE bring loose change for your purchases. Proffering a £10, £20 or £50 note for one cup of tea will illicit a suitable reply. Spring water is free to all from the ancient fountain to the rear of the Well House. Don’t forget to bring a suitable container.
If you wish to take The Plunge into the ancient spa bath remember to bring bathing apparel and a towel. A small charge for charity will be levied. Elderly or disabled visitors may be driven up the track. Please contact the tenants to obtain permission on 01943 608035.
Further information about White Wells can be found on the following websites
www.elburgandy.co.uk www.whitewells.cjb.net
www.ilkleymor.co.uk www.frazerirwin.co.uk
A tip for drivers taking the track to White Wells. After passing the waterfall engage first gear before ascending the hill and keep driving round to the rear of the Poor Bath where minimal parking is available. We hope you enjoy your visit to White Wells and will come again. Valete, deliciae meae.
With your back to the TIC turn left and continue to the zebra crossing. Cross to the other side and again by Domus Lana Dignorum to the other side of Brook Street. Turn right, walk to Church Street and cross at the traffic lights. Left again, All Saints Church is worth a visit. You will find ancient crosses in the west end of the nave and behind the Verbia Alter. A Roman relic often overlooked by modern historical literature.
Information about the church history is obtainable within. A notable point, the font. While the font cover is original, the font is not. When the church was undergoing refurbishment during the Victorian era, the original font was taken to the vicarage on Wells Road. Where it became forgotten. A new font, the present one, was carved as a replacement.
After Ben Rhydding church was built they needed a font and an ‘old’ one was found in Ilkley vicarage garden. This was moved to the new church. Thanks to Sally Brown’s remarkable postcard collection, I was able to recognise the original All Saints font, as that which now stands in Ben Rhydding church.
Continue to The Manor House Museum just behind All Saints. Known at one time as The Castle. The building was previously four cottages and before that a yeoman farmer’s residence. Parts date back to the 14th century but the land on which it and All Saints are built was/is the site of the Roman fort, Olicana. If the light is right you may just find a very, very faint Roman inscription - Monstra si vis qua ad Murum Hadrianum adire possim - outside. Information about the Manor House and Roman fort are in the museum part of the building. Upstairs houses an art gallery. Take note of the furniture in the lower part, especially the inglenook fireplace and large clock.
From the Manor House turn down and left onto Bridge Lane, take the footpath into Riverside War Memorial Gardens for a gentle stroll by the river. Food and refreshment can be had at The Riverside Hotel. Riverside gardens have had a chequered history. In their early days they were Ray’s Pleasure Grounds until The Great Flood washed much of them away.
Later they became allotments for local folk and later still that which we see today. Prior to the river becoming silted up rowing boats were a delight to visitors on this stretch of river. Nearer Ilkley Bridge, not a packhorse bridge, one may just see the foundations of an earlier structure (at low water) in the centre of the riverbed.
Before crossing the bridge observe river levels on the southern bridge parapet. While on the bridge look for a half penny piece cemented into the wall by workmen repointing the bridge. Also for stone protrusions which kept wagon and stage coach wheels from damaging the bridge walls. At the far side turn right and follow the riverside walk to the New Bridge.
If you have young children take care on this side as the banks are very steep. Follow the path upto and across the road into East Holmes Fields. There is a shingle beach and seats for picnickers. Please remember to take your rubbish home with you. There are Latrinae Publicae at Ilkley Lido at the far side of East Holmes Field.
Follow the riverside walk to Denton Road and turn right. At the swing bridge you have a choice. Cross the bridge and follow the path back to town or cross the road into Hudson Wood. Depending on time of year a walk round this wood can be a joy or nightmare. In winter and spring wellingtons or walking boots are advisable. We suggest contacting the Tourist Information Centre for information as to when the Bluebells are in flower. A sight not to be missed.
This is a long hike and needs walking boots and all weather clothing. We suggest you take a packed lunch, drinks and start early. From the TIC turn right and take Cowpasture Road. Follow this to the cattle grid on Hangingstone Road and continue uphill to the Cow and Calf Rocks.
Spend a little time looking at the rocks especially the Hangingstone Rock on the northern edge of the escarpment. Beware of loose stones from above and unfenced quarry edges. There is a refreshment area in the car park but apart from the Cow and Calf Hotel and White Wells there are no other Latrinae Publicae on this route.
Take the path behind the Cow and Calf Rocks to Backstone Beck and thence to Rocky Valley. Follow the path while looking for the stone donkey on your left. ‘He’ is hidden behind a large rock and thought to be the work of a Victorian quarryman. At the end of Rocky Valley turn right to White Wells and if the flags are flying, a welcome drink.
From the Well House take the track downhill past the waterfall, then the first path to your left. Follow this to Keighley Road, turn left up the road to the bridge, then right along the edge of the moor. Continue on this path to Heber’s Ghyll while quietly chanting these ancient words - O luvenes mei, debetis vidisse nos euntes! Again you have a choice. Walk past the top of the Ghyll and join a rather vague path to the Swastica Stone, a National Monument. The carving is the only one this design in the world. Further information about the carving can be found at the TIC or Manor House Museum.
Alternatively one can take the path down Hebers Ghyll. Beware of slippery conditions in wet weather. There is a chalybeate spring, which should be running at the top of the steps. The Heber Family after which the Ghyll was named were distant cousins of Reginald, Bishop of Calcutta. Noted amongst other things for composing the hymn, “On Greenland’s icy mountains.”
Follow the path to the bottom keeping an eye open for deer, which frequent the woods. Also Green and Great Spotted Woodpeckers, Jays and a very odd rampant peasant. At the bottom of the Ghyll turn right onto Grove Road and follow this back into Town. If anyone is still feeling energetic, there is a Public footpath immediately to the right of the Ghyll bottom.
This takes one back up hill, through Lower Panorama and onto Hollin Hall Drive. A gentle stroll takes the visitor onto Queens Drive, past Ardenlea, a Grade 2 listed building and onto Queens Road. Turn right down hill and look for another National Monument, The Panorama Stone a rare carving (what’s left of it), in Saint Margaret's Park. St Margaret’s Church is worthy of a second visit to the area.
Adjacent to the church is Deaconess Court. Built in 1869 as Ilkley’s first College of Education and the Northern Annex of the South Kensington School of Art. In 1903 it became the Mother House and College for Wesleyan Deaconess’s. The principal at the time one Rev. T. Bowman Stephenson instigated formation of the National Children’s Homes. Continue along Queens Road keeping watch for a postman and his black and white cat. Left again at Albany Walk then into Mill Ghyll and down to town.
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